2011年10月12日星期三

寻缘天下第一名刹少林寺 赏世界最大古塔群 Shaolin Temple in Dengfeng City, Henan Province

“日出嵩山坳,晨钟惊飞鸟…”大家对于郑绪岚这首幽幽的《牧羊曲》不会陌生, 李连杰1982年的电影《少林寺》红遍大江南北,少林寺一夜之间也无人不知无人不晓了,李连杰也由此走向世界,奠定了国际武打明星的地位。
少林寺的一炮走红,在影视界起到了“羊群效应”的效果,于是《少林小子》、《少林俗家弟子》及至后来的《少林活宝贝》、《少林足球》、《新少林寺》 等等应运而 出,通过共振原理,借助少林寺我们的少林电影事业空前繁荣(当然作品好坏留待你评说),少林寺也因为影视的传播冲出亚洲走向了世界!

少林寺著名的“塔林”,也是《少林寺》里“李连杰”和那些恶人斗得难分难解之地
近几年少林寺的名声更是大噪,只是原因稍微有点变化。由于其与时俱进进行大规模的商业开发活动,招来毁誉均有的评价!前几年,据称还要整一个集团公司上市,只是后来没了下文。宗教我不懂,不便多言。

少林寺武术表演
但是我在欧洲旅行时,去过很多教堂,包括法国的巴黎圣 母院、米兰的DUOMO大教堂、梵蒂冈的圣彼得大教堂等等,对教堂有如下印象:无论大或者小,其建筑绝对典雅端庄,精美绝伦,教堂内壁画绝对华丽可谓美轮 美奂;同时,教堂是教徒们精神之家园,也就是说人们那浮躁不安的情绪能在这里得到平复与安慰;此外,宗教是归化人心灵的场所,也就是教育人们要有一颗善良 富有爱心的美好心灵,因而教堂也身体力行,大做慈善事业。据我所知,欧洲的很多教堂有免费的粮食,供穷人们领取,大一点的教堂还有流浪者收养所、贫困者法 律或者生命援助中心等等,这些慈善组织均非盈利性组织。恕我孤陋寡闻,我还没有见过收门票的教堂(当然不包括我国的寺庙),如果依教堂的价值而言,这些古 老的代表性建筑似乎更有理由收取门票(注意:绝非仿古建筑)!

大雄宝殿前,香火缭绕。1982年重建。
宗教,我不懂!但是对于我国寺庙的大肆商业开发,我也只能叽歪一下:是否和佛教的本意相去甚远?俺不得而知。对于少林寺的发展,听说释永信大师 做出了很大的贡献,目前在国外也开办了40余家公司。是耶非耶?留待同学们自己评说。不过有一点需要说明的是,在一切向钱看的今天,寺庙与僧人不能免俗, 似乎也可以理解。
闲话休扯!就此打住,回到少林寺的话题。少林寺的名气,我想大家有个共同的看法,那不是很大,而是相当的大!所以“奥迪Q5五岳之旅”经过登封时,拜访少林寺,那是必须的内容。于是俺也随大部队一睹“少林寺”之风采!

藏经阁
关于少林寺庙的来历,不得不补充说明如下:寺庙始建于北魏太和二十年,也即公元496年,因寺庙位于少室山脚密林里面,因而得名少林寺。32年后, 印度名 僧菩提达摩来到少林寺,并传授禅法,后人称为禅宗。所以禅宗在中国的传播,菩提达摩是开创者。达摩来后,终日面壁,此时嵩山僧人神光闻之来此求道,达摩不 置可否,神光发扬了你不答应我就不走的泡蘑菇精神,从早站到晚,此时大雪纷飞,第二天凌晨,大雪已没过神光的双膝,此时达摩才开口说话,但是还是对神光求 法有疑虑,神光于是取刀自断左臂,达摩终被感动,于是收神光为徒,并为之取名慧可—他就是禅宗的第二代祖师。因而少林寺就有了“立雪亭”,禅宗也因而 在华夏大地传播!少林寺就有了“禅宗祖廷”的称谓。
后人们“面壁思过”,或者“面壁十年图破壁”中的“面壁”均来源于达摩的这个故事。

鼓楼和钟楼,很多寺庙也会有。
少林寺的发展也几经兴废,兴时得益于统治者的大力支持,废时则源于统治者禁佛。兴盛之时仅举二case。无疑唐朝李世民时期,少林寺的发展达到 一个巅峰,因为李世民在早期征战中得到少林寺僧的鼎力相助,所以李世民当皇帝后封少林昙宗和尚为大将军,从其他方面也大力相帮,少林寺因而也博得了“天下 第一名刹” 的美誉。
到了元朝初期,由于蒙古异族来统治华夏,因而民间很不安宁。如何统一思想,的确颇费当局者脑筋,那时还没有共产主义理论,即使有,也不可能来 个:大家好好干,以后按需分配。因为那毕竟和蒙古统治者的利益相悖。因而忽必烈采纳大臣建议:“以儒治世、以佛治心”,于是派福裕来少林寺当方丈,并封他 为“都僧省” (相当于全国佛教协会会长),统领全国佛教徒,这就迎来了少林寺的另一个高潮。在福裕教化下,中原地区终于接受了元朝的管理,福裕圆寂之后,被封为晋国 公,这也算佛教界空前绝后的一封吧。
至于“被废”就不在此多说,只说最近的一次毁坏事件,民国时期的1928年,军阀石友三火烧少林寺,把天王殿、大雄宝殿、法堂和钟楼等主要建筑统统付之一炬;许多珍贵的藏经、寺志、拳谱等化为灰烬。
了解了这些背景,我们就此走进少林寺,一睹其真章!

进入少林寺景区后,雨水仍然纷纷,路边杨柳也依依
当我们来到登封时,巍巍嵩山缭绕在云雾之中,徒添神秘色彩。

“少林寺”三字乃康熙大帝之御笔
进入少林寺景区后,雨水仍然纷纷,路边杨柳也依依。
下车后,首先来到这个吃饭的地方,一尝少林“斋菜”的味道。
吃完饭,开始参观。雨虽然很大,但人仍然很多,给拍照造成很大困难。“少林寺”三字乃康熙大帝之御笔。
走进古刹,银杏古树参天,但人可谓密密麻麻。

一色红砖绿瓦的仿古建筑
就其建筑来说,与其他寺庙并没有多大区别,一色红砖绿瓦的仿古建筑。
这是锤谱堂,据说是藏少林武谱之地,所以这个“锤”就是捶打–武术的意思喏。你可能发现这个照片都是仰拍的,是啊,如果不仰拍,脑袋就会很多,当然里面空间也很局促,给你拍照的空间不是很大,不得已而为之。下面照片也是同理。

天王殿
天王殿–很多寺庙也有,不多说。这是1982年重修的建筑。

这是少林寺庙内最大的一棵银杏树
这是寺庙内最大的一棵银杏树,据称与寺庙同龄,1000余年的树龄,虽然寺庙几经兴废,唯独我屹立不倒,可谓阅尽寺庙沧桑。乾隆来此时,写下: “明日瞻中岳,今宵宿少林。心依六禅静,寺据万山深。树古风流籁,地灵夕做阴。应教半巅雨,发我夜吟窗。”树古–当然就是这一棵了。

藏经阁少了笔画
细心的你肯定会发现,这个藏经阁怎么就少了笔画?这也是我拍下这张照片的原因之一,因为我在其它寺庙没见过如此题字的。这是前佛教界的领袖赵朴初先生所书,据称:感叹于藏经阁藏书之不全,因而赵先生就幽默的这样题写了。这座建筑重建于1994年。

西方圣人殿
这个西方圣人殿在其它地方也不多见。殿里就是供奉的达摩祖师喏—禅宗之鼻祖!

碑铭下面的龙头乌龟并不多见
但这个碑铭下面的龙头乌龟并不多见,这就是传说中的“霸下”,又名赑屃,形似龟,是龙生九子中的老六。平生好负重,力大无穷,霸下又称石龟,是长寿和吉祥的象征。

乾隆的御笔
这是来自于乾隆的御笔,所以也贴上。值得补充的是,作为身为一国之君的皇帝,这个字–的确写得很盖!

少林寺著名的“塔林”。也是《少林寺》里“李连杰”和那些恶人斗得难分难解之地
看完少林寺,出庙门,百米不到,就到了著名的“塔林”。也是《少林寺》里“李连杰”和那些恶人斗得难分难解之地。其实就我个人来看,从建筑艺术 来说,这是少林寺之精华所在,因为这里有自唐朝以来各个朝代的古塔240余座,为我国现存世界最大古塔群,反映了历朝历代的建筑风格,的确具有研究价值。

我国现存世界最大古塔群
看那一个个墓塔,有的圆润,有的细瘦,有的高挺,有的低矮敦实,有的正方形,有的六角、八角,有的有檐,有的没有,所谓造型各异,式样繁多,的确是研究我国古代建筑艺术的宝库。

所谓造型各异,式样繁多
据说最高者–七层,源于“七级浮屠”之说。就其群体–塔林来看,也是很壮美的,如果你变换你的距离与角度,你会发现:远近高低各不相同!

塔林其实是方丈、主持和一些有成就高僧的坟墓
就塔林的实质意义来说,塔林其实是方丈、主持和一些有成就高僧的坟墓,其中唐塔2座、宋塔2座、金塔10座、元塔46座、明塔148座,余为清塔或时代不详者。

靠左侧最高古塔乃元代的福裕墓塔
靠左侧最高古塔乃元代的福裕墓塔—也是塔林中级别最高者,也就是那个被封为晋国公的方丈。要知道在古代被封的均是一些开国元勋,可见福裕地位之高。

这座塔是明代嘉靖年间的少林寺第24代方丈小山和尚墓塔
这座塔是明代嘉靖年间的少林寺第24代方丈小山和尚墓塔。据说,嘉靖年间,东南沿海一带不断有倭寇骚扰。后来嘉靖皇帝先后三次任命小山率领少林武僧去平定倭寇,保障了当地老百姓的正常生活。小山禅师功德圆满,受封为少林寺住持方丈。

素喜塔
这个塔也不得不说,为素喜塔,为2008年圆寂的素喜大师所建。据称素喜是少林寺里长老级别的高僧,在佛教界武术界名气很大,海内外弟子多达三 千人。有意思的是,基部石雕刻有飞机、汽车、火车、笔记本电脑等现代化的物品,也许弟子们希望大师在西方极乐世界潇潇洒洒吧。这倒是和当下一切追求物质金 钱的潮流很相吻合,但不知素喜大师自己作何感想?

飞机、笔记本电脑的石雕
对于这些墓塔的朝代及其其中的故事,来不及一一考证,只好留待你自己去慢慢体味了。
旅行贴士:
1.少林寺门票价格100元,包含所有景点门票,但不包缆车的价格。
2.从登封去少林寺,最方便最便宜的应该是8路公交车
3.禅宗大典的门票尽量找网上比较靠谱的订票机构,我们这次花了比B区还少的钱买到了A区的票,连包车大姐都说我们的票简直太便宜了。

The Shaolin temples (Shàolín Sì) are a group of Chinese Buddhist monasteries in Henan Province famed for their long association with Chán (Zen) Buddhism and martial arts. Thanks to Kung Fu movies, they are probably the most familiar Buddhist monasteries in the West. Shaolin is situated on China's central Taoist sacred mountain, Song Shan. The name "Shaolin" means "Young Forest".

History

Shaolin was founded during the Northern Wei dynasty in approximately 497 AD and remains one of China's oldest Buddhist temples. It was said to have been used as a home by the Indian monk Batuo during the thirty years he spent preaching Nikaya Buddhism in China.
But the most famous name associated with Shaolin is that of Bodhidharma or Tamo (pinyin: Dámó), an Indian monk who travelled to China in 5th century to teach Buddhism. A traditional story relates that Bodhidharma sat in meditation facing a wall in a nearby cave for nine years. Bodhidharma's ministry at Shaolin formed the basis for what would later be called the Zen or Chán (Meditation) school of Buddhism.
After entering Shaolin, it is said that Bodhidharma found the monks out of shape from a lifetime spent in study and meditation, so he introduced a regimen of gymnastics which later developed into kung fu.
The monks studied the movements of animals and copied them - crawling snakes, leaping tigers, dancing mantises, and so on. The exercises evolved into a form of self-defense, as Shaolin was isolated in lawless territory and often prey to bandits. (This was a common problem for ancient monasteries, which was met in Egypt by strong walls and in Ireland by round towers.)
From childhood, Shaolin monks subjected themselves to rigorous training five hours a day, every day. Only after 20 years of this could they be considered fully fledged monks, by which time they could perform incredible feats. Examples range from breaking concrete slabs with their fists to balancing on one finger.
The martial arts taught at Shaolin had a spiritual and moral dimension that was considered equally, if not more, important than the physical. The monks spent as many hours praying and meditating as they did in kung fu training. They adhered to a moral code in which self-defense was the only acceptable reason for fighting and killing one's opponent was to be avoided if possible.
Popular tales illustrating these ideals include the story of one monk who fought a thousand enemies with a stick while pretending to be drunk, and the cook who kept a horde at bay with a poker at the temple gates while the other monks continued their meditations undisturbed.
These rules were bent a little, however, as emperors and peasants sought their help in battle. Shaolin Temple's military fame began during the early Tang Dynasty (618-907), when records describe Shaolin monks saving the life of the future emperor Li Shimin (the monks were said to have gotten in and out of the fort before anyone could even raise the alarm) and assisting in his fight against renegade forces.
Once enthroned, the gratified emperor enlarged their compound and gave permission for some monks to continue their military training. Shaolin kung fu reached its peak during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), when several hundred Shaolin monks were given military status and weapons were added to their training. Some monks personally led campaigns against rebels and Japanese bandits. By this time, the Shaolin had developed their own unique style of martial arts, known as Shaolinquan.
The original temple survived being sacked and rebuilt many times, but the Manchus destroyed the compound in 1647 and massacred almost the entire population of monks. Shaolin was not rebuilt until around 1800. The most recent destruction was a fire set by the warlord Shi Yousan in 1928, which destroyed the buildings and many priceless manuscripts of the temple library.
At the Cultural Revolution, the temple was sacked and the monks arrested or chased into the countryside to become peasants. The teaching of kung fu was banned in China until the 1980s when, partially thanks to the immensely popular film Shaolin Temple, there was a resurgence of the art. The old masters were allowed to teach again and the government reopened Shaolin, mainly as a tourist attraction.
Kung fu remains incredibly popular in China today, with films featuring the tales of Shaolin monks often making up the bulk of offerings at the cinema. Many Chinese children want to study kung fu and the Wushu Training Center was opened at Shaolin to meet the demand. Few of them want to become monks, however; most dream of being movie stars.
Today's robed residents at Shaolin are highly skilled fighters, but cannot be considered genuine Shaolin monks, for the spiritual side of their discipline is now virtually absent. In fact, the present abbot has a distinct reputation for aggression. There are still genuine Shaolin monks in China, but they keep a low profile and are not to be found at Shaolin.
Nevertheless, the ancient temple remains a center of pilgrimage for martial arts enthusiasts, a good place to get quality kung fu lessons, and a popular tourist destination.

What to See

The present Shaolin temple complex dates mostly from after the 1928 fire. It has been gaudily repainted and filled mainly with souvenir shops, but there are still several sights of interest.
The first temple courtyard contains steles, one of which celebrates the visit of American kung-fu masters. Two of the halls in the back have delightful murals, one of the few things that haven't been repeatedly restored. The monks depicted in the murals look more comic than threatening.
The Qing murals in the White Robe Hall depict the Rescue of Emperor Tai Zong by Thirteen Monks, showing typical kung-fu moves. The Thousand Buddha Hall contains a Ming-dynasty mural of 500 arhats. In the Hall of Wen Shu are deep depressions in the stone floor caused by monks standing in the same place and practising their stance kicks over and over again.
About 200m up the hill from the temple is the impressive Forest of Dagobas (or Pagoda Forest), with hundreds of stone pagoda memorials erected in honor of Shaolin monks from the 9th to 19th centuries. Each one is inscribed with the names of the monk and his disciples. Here the students of the temple practice martial arts in their orange robes: one exercise involves fighting while balanced halfway up the sides of the dagobas.
You can continue the ascent up the mountain by cable car or stone steps from here. The main attraction is the cave where Bodhidarma is said to have spent nine years motionless facing a wall in a state of Zen enlightenment. For a few ¥ you can look at it from the road through a high-powered telescope.

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