2011年9月4日星期日

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅 Top Ten Attractions in Prague

我们追随着《布拉格之春》音乐季来到这里,而这座城市的魅力远远不止于此;在这最好的季节里,请跟随我们一起去发现那些在著名音乐厅周围的好玩地方,让你听好、玩好。

泰恩教堂音乐厅
去旧城广场(Old Town Square)饱览欧洲建筑精华
凌晨5点半,布拉格的天空开始有了一丝光芒,从刚下榻的房间窗口望出去,铺满金黄色晨光的旧城广场显得庄重而威严。我们入住的旧城广场酒店(Old Town SquareHotel)就位于旧城广场边上,其家族式经营已经延续了半个世纪,里面绝大多数客房都可以直接俯瞰广场,这样客人可以直接感受到广场的别样 宁静,就像是城市脱离白天喧闹沉寂下来后那种最质朴的面貌。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
登上位于老城广场的天文钟(The Astronomical Clock)顶层可以俯瞰布拉格老城的全貌,门票100克朗

在安排好一切后,帅哥服务员说一定要站到大楼顶去俯瞰布拉格全城,入眼都是各种中世纪建筑,而且望不到尽头,颇有一种当年捷克国王在巡视国土的气 概。我最喜欢的是这里活泼的气氛、热闹的露天咖啡馆,以及广场四周风格年代不尽相同的缤纷建筑物;站在广场上的任意一个角落,都可轻松欣赏到文艺复兴与巴 洛克风格的华宅、古典式的大窗、新艺术式的装饰以及各个不同时代的雕刻。最棒的是,置身在这样的一个广场,其实并不需要你有雄厚的建筑知识为后盾才能有资 格欣赏,即便是一个不懂建筑的纯粹旅人如我,一样能够沉浸在让人目不暇接的建筑之美中。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
登上位于老城广场的天文钟顶层可以俯瞰布拉格老城的全貌,门票100克朗 ,在塔楼顶是欣赏布拉格古建筑艺术的绝佳观赏点之一

在旧城广场上的咖啡,搭配的是好几个世纪累积下来的经典建筑、是响了好几百年的老钟声,我们喝下的其实就是既古典又现代的布拉格风韵,那股味道绝对是可以放在记忆里存放好久的迷人滋味。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅

广场上最著名的街头音乐家,各大旅行书都有他身影

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
我在布拉格印象最深的是古老如画的有轨电车

鲁道夫音乐厅 穿街入巷寻找布拉格的小滋味
走一趟中世纪欧洲童话小巷
离鲁道夫音乐厅不远的地方,我们在黄金巷(Zlata Ulicka)的后街小巷处发现布拉格迷人和忧郁的本质。它是布拉格城堡建筑群中颇为有趣的一部分,一个光彩变幻的可爱的地方,与卡夫卡的阴郁恰成对比。 小巷深深,两边五彩斑斓的房子,似乎一伸手也能触及几百年前辉煌荣耀的布拉格。踏进这条包含11栋古代炼金术士屋子的小巷,就好像进入了一个童话世界。不 仅每个房子的形态、颜色不一,而且门窗都非常低矮狭小,就好像七个小矮人的居所。房子上画着各式的窗花,捷克人喜欢手绘窗花,波西米亚范儿的花儿们,在窗 棂间舞动,表达着捷克人对生活的热爱。黄金巷之所以名声大噪,是因为大家所熟悉的卡夫卡。1916年,当时还只是一位银行小职员的卡夫卡,喜欢上了黄金巷 的环境,以每月20克朗租了这里门牌为22号的房子作为工作室。如今这个蓝色的22号,是“卡夫卡书店”,别的商店都在六点关门,只有卡夫卡书店,会营业 到八点。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
黄金巷子里面的小窗户

小巷深深,两边五彩斑斓的房子,似乎一伸手就能触及几百年前辉煌荣耀的布拉格。踏进这条包含11栋古代炼金术士屋子的小巷,就好像进入了一个童话世界。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
偶遇的街头音乐家们正是布拉格的致命吸引力之一

躲开人潮在小岛上享受清净
从旧城区行经查理大桥前往小区,在桥上就可以看到这个紧邻着河畔的康帕岛(Kampa)。这个小小的区域其实并不是一个真正的岛屿,只是因为它除了 紧临伏尔塔瓦河(Vltava)之外,另一侧还有条雀尔托夫卡河(Certovka),即使区域的南部和小区是相连的,大家还是把它视为一个小小的岛般看 待。
布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
岛上的建筑物给人一种分外优雅轻松的感觉

这个小巧的康帕岛显然是最少游客群集的地方;一般人走在查理大桥时眼光被桥上的人事物景所吸引,过了桥就直奔城堡区,康帕岛似乎就这样 轻而易举地被旅人给忽略了。不过,我自个儿却颇喜爱这个区域。虽然康帕岛并非是个岛,但它却散发出热带岛屿般的闲适与悠哉气息,岛上的建筑物虽然并不是什 么大有来头的建筑,但却给人一种分外优雅轻松的感觉,因此这里绝对是我们想从一大堆景点一大堆人潮里钻出来透口气、沉淀一下心情的绝佳选择。
若沿着河畔走向公园,还可以欣赏到颇为美丽的布拉格市容,而公园里那被阳光照得越发翠绿的草地,是个很适合写张明信片给自己或给朋友的地方。

骑士兵器博物馆
 
黄金巷子较窄、人流量较大,我们在这儿拍东西时常会被路人打扰,比较难拍出干净的画面感觉。经过明察暗访之后,我们发现大部分游客都去卡夫可故居的 地方聚集,在巷子入口处不远的地方有一个中世纪骑士兵器的小博物馆里面反倒没有什么人,因此我们在这里反倒拍到了不少干净的好照片。我们在拍摄的时候最好 选用24-35mm的焦段,不过要注意画面变形。

博物馆位置:巷子口的最前方
 
漫步大桥的石瓦上,微风轻拂脸庞;欣赏街头艺人的捷克风味乐曲与木偶剧,大概在这里才能有如此文艺的旅行经历。

从老城广场出发,穿过黄金巷卡夫卡的故居,沿着伏尔塔瓦河下行的第一座桥,就是游客们津津乐道的建于1357年的查理大石桥(Charles Bridge )。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
查理大桥两旁站满了街头艺术家们

这条桥最吸引我的,就是不少街头艺术家在这条桥上演奏不同类型的音乐。虽说维也纳更是音乐之都,但所有的音乐表演,都得付上昂贵的门票才能欣赏,在 维也纳,音乐似乎是奢侈品。而在这里漫步桥上,微风轻拂脸庞;欣赏街头艺人的捷克风味乐曲与木偶剧,气氛也跟着不同了。这时桥上传来了动听的音乐,有一位 戴着墨镜的老先生在桥中央操弄着手上的绳子,在美妙的旋律中脚下的木偶活灵活现地弹起吉他!仔细一看,扯线木偶是配合轻快悦耳的音符弹奏手上的吉他呢,真 乃技艺高超也。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
查理大桥附近的天鹅

除此以外,桥两侧并列的30个雕像,每一尊雕像都极具特色,使整座桥充满了古色古香而细致的美感;但是其中有一个特别引人注意,名为“圣约翰”两旁的金属雕刻被摸得发亮,

传说碰触此雕像的人都可以获得庇护保平安而且还能有机会旧地重游,这个大家排队等着碰触的雕像成了最受欢迎的雕像,往往排在其前面的人龙总是长长的一串,要拍照都要等好久。

查理大桥上的三个拍摄点
 
从桥上看风景,分别有四个地方较容易拍到好照片。在耶稣受难雕像处,我们可拍到较好的桥面环境图,推荐多尝试较低的角度,可拍摄出不同的画面感觉; 在圣母圣多米尼克和圣托马斯雕像这里则可以尝试拍摄远处的布拉格城镇,拍摄时可以让较多的城镇进入画面,减少河面所占的画面比例;最后在圣路加雕像这里则 最好选择天晴的时候,采用逆光的方式去拍摄雕像,可以拍出类似天堂感觉的气势恢弘画面。

游玩攻略
 
CaféLouvre咖啡馆:这是一家具有百年历史的咖啡店,据闻爱因斯坦和卡夫卡都喜欢在此流连。隔着窗子看着街头的往来人车,露台上的小野花依然绽放着,似乎就能领略当年卡夫卡、爱因斯坦在此沉思研究的情怀, 人均花费约在150克朗。

KamennyStul餐厅:在旧城广场逛累了,可来这里休息外加解决温饱问题,推荐285克朗布拉格风味鸡排餐和375克朗的传统捷克烤鸭餐;听着旋律吃着美食看着窗外的人潮,还真是别致的享受,人均花费约在450克朗。

U Flek啤酒屋:全布拉格最新鲜最有历史的啤酒就在这里!创立于1499年,是布拉格最老字号的酒馆及酿酒厂,来这里一定要尝试遵循自家祖传秘方酿造的UFlek啤酒;酒馆内部还有表演厅,深受游客欢迎的U Flek歌舞秀就是在这里演出,人均花费约在150克朗。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
捷克啤酒口感独特值得一试

交通
 

机场往来市中心的交通方式:
(1) 最经济快速:买一张26克朗的车票(平日60分钟有效/假日90分钟),搭119号巴士到A线(绿色)的Dejvicka地铁站,或搭100号巴士到B线(黄色)的Zlicin地铁站,接着再转乘地铁到目的地(不建议拉行李搭乘)。
(2) 较经济但是速度较慢:选择搭乘Student Agency巴士到市中心的Florenc巴士总站。
(3) 最快速:搭机场直达小巴士往返市区,直接向司机购票(有时下车才收费)。

购物
哈维尔市集:便宜,有想要的就下手吧!贩售内容大同小异,可多走几家再决定是否购买,买的数量多可以杀价。

布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
哈维尔市集的入口,里面应有尽有

超市:Tesco、Albert、Billa、Penny等连锁超市。
最便宜的城镇:Telc,有喜欢的纪念品可以就在这个小镇先买了,免得后悔。
最贵的城镇:当然非Praha莫属,CK仅次于Praha。本来打算要买啤酒+酒杯的礼盒当纪念品,由于Praha镇太贵而没有下手,打算到机场购买,没想到机场没有,所以有喜欢的要赶紧下手。
布拉格 音乐朝圣之旅
布拉格两大音乐厅周边景色示意图

 Top Ten Attractions in Prague

The Charles Bridge

The stunning 15th century bridge, which connects the 'Lesser Town' and the old town, is adorned with 30 statues of saints and lined with old fashioned lanterns, making it the perfect spot for a romantic evening, or early morning stroll. However, it is best avoided during the middle of the day, as the crowds flock across the bridge in their masses taking in every photo opportunity, while entertainers and arts & crafts stalls set up business for the day.

The Astronomical Clock

Probably one of the most famous sites of Prague is the striking astronomical clock of the town hall, which also features a calendar painted by the famous Czech painter Josef Manes, and the charming procession of the 12 apostles who appear through the wooden doors that open at the top, drawing huge crowds of tourists on the hour every hour. The clock displays four times: central European time, old bohemian time, stellar time and the unique Babylonian time.

The John Lennon Wall

Possibly one of the most unusual and unexpected sights in Prague is the John Lennon wall in the Lesser town.This graffiti-covered wall features an image of John Lennon's face - who, despite having never visited Prague, became a hero to the young, particularly after his murder in the 1980s when western music was banned here. Anti-communists and peace activists daubed anti-government slogans on this wall and, since the collapse of communism, visitors from around the world have added words, poems and paintings of peace, creating a bright and colorful statement against the soft palette of the more traditional buildings of Prague.

Shopping!

If you can’t get by without a bit of retail therapy - and have money to spend - then head to Pariska, which is just off the Old Town Square and is the equivalent of London’s Bond Street, where Dior, Gucci, Hermes, Burberry and Louis Vuitton (to name just a few) adorn this pretty tree-lined street, sitting comfortably alongside many inviting restaurants and cafes.

Coffee at Kavarna café, Municipal house

Marvel at this stunning art nouveau building right in the heart of the city. The Municipal House building is the site of the former Royal Court Palace, and is now a multi-functional venue and hosts many events, from classical music concerts to conferences and fashion shows. It also houses two restaurants, a bar and art gallery. The Kaverna café is situated on the ground floor and is open early for breakfast and speciality coffee and tea, serves light Czech national cuisine dishes for lunch and is open until late for alcoholic drinks and bar snacks. In the summer - tables and chairs are set up outside - it's perfect for retail therapy refreshment as it is opposite one of Prague’s main shopping centres!

The Castle

Dominating the skyline of the city is the Prague Castle – the largest ancient castle in the world. Over the centuries the castle has survived many invasions, fires and wars, and has been rebuilt many times, which has resulted in a mixture of architectural styles. The castle is currently the seat of the president of the Czech Republic, and each hour, on the hour, the changing of the guard takes place. If you catch it at midday, you can see the military fanfare, too. You will need at least half a day to explore the castle, its courtyards, surrounding churches and beautiful gardens, whilst taking in all the history. Make sure you finish off your visit with lunch in one of the surrounding cafes or restaurants.

The Lesser Town (Mala Strana) and St Nicholas Church
The Lesser Town, on the left bank of the river, has remained practically unchanged since the end of the 18th century. Away from the bustling streets of the old town, with many bars and restaurants, you can sit and enjoy a drink and watch the world go by. The imposing baroque St Nicolas Cathedral is the prominent feature of this side of the river, boasting a large green dome and high bell tower. Once you step inside, magnificent frescos adorn the ceilings.

Chateau Mcely

If you fancy heading out of the city for some fresh country air, then look no further than the beautiful Chateau Mcely. An hour's drive from Prague in the heart of the St George forest, this is a real treasure (which I almost don’t want to tell anyone about - and keep it my secret!) You can go for lunch, dinner or traditional cream tea - even stay for a weekend as it is also a hotel with 24 beautifully appointed rooms and suites. Chateau Mcely also offers a range of their own spa treatments created on the basis of ancient alchemy and using herbs from the St George forest.

The Jewish Quarter

The harrowing history of the Jewish community of Prague can be traced back as far as the 13th Century, when the Jewish Quarter was created. The Jewish people were not allowed to live in any other area of the City and had heavy restrictions imposed on them. As more and more people were forced to live in this area it became known as The Prague Ghetto until 1781. Many significant historical buildings remain here including many synagogues, The Jewish Town Hall and the Jewish cemetery - which is the oldest burial ground in the world, and where some 12,000 graves are piled one on top of the other.

Kampa Island and Kampa Museum

Sitting proudly on Kampa Island - on the left bank of the Vltava River - is the Kampa Museum. Opened in 2002, it holds a large permanent collection of Central European art as well as visiting exhibitions throughout the year. Include a visit if you venture into the Lesser town for a relaxing and peaceful morning, and perhaps enjoy a coffee or lunch in the museum's gorgeous riverside café.

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