泰恩教堂音乐厅
去旧城广场(Old Town Square)饱览欧洲建筑精华
凌晨5点半,布拉格的天空开始有了一丝光芒,从刚下榻的房间窗口望出去,铺满金黄色晨光的旧城广场显得庄重而威严。我们入住的旧城广场酒店(Old
Town
SquareHotel)就位于旧城广场边上,其家族式经营已经延续了半个世纪,里面绝大多数客房都可以直接俯瞰广场,这样客人可以直接感受到广场的别样
宁静,就像是城市脱离白天喧闹沉寂下来后那种最质朴的面貌。
登上位于老城广场的天文钟(The Astronomical Clock)顶层可以俯瞰布拉格老城的全貌,门票100克朗
登上位于老城广场的天文钟顶层可以俯瞰布拉格老城的全貌,门票100克朗 ,在塔楼顶是欣赏布拉格古建筑艺术的绝佳观赏点之一
广场上最著名的街头音乐家,各大旅行书都有他身影
我在布拉格印象最深的是古老如画的有轨电车
鲁道夫音乐厅 穿街入巷寻找布拉格的小滋味
走一趟中世纪欧洲童话小巷
离鲁道夫音乐厅不远的地方,我们在黄金巷(Zlata Ulicka)的后街小巷处发现布拉格迷人和忧郁的本质。它是布拉格城堡建筑群中颇为有趣的一部分,一个光彩变幻的可爱的地方,与卡夫卡的阴郁恰成对比。 小巷深深,两边五彩斑斓的房子,似乎一伸手也能触及几百年前辉煌荣耀的布拉格。踏进这条包含11栋古代炼金术士屋子的小巷,就好像进入了一个童话世界。不 仅每个房子的形态、颜色不一,而且门窗都非常低矮狭小,就好像七个小矮人的居所。房子上画着各式的窗花,捷克人喜欢手绘窗花,波西米亚范儿的花儿们,在窗 棂间舞动,表达着捷克人对生活的热爱。黄金巷之所以名声大噪,是因为大家所熟悉的卡夫卡。1916年,当时还只是一位银行小职员的卡夫卡,喜欢上了黄金巷 的环境,以每月20克朗租了这里门牌为22号的房子作为工作室。如今这个蓝色的22号,是“卡夫卡书店”,别的商店都在六点关门,只有卡夫卡书店,会营业 到八点。
黄金巷子里面的小窗户
偶遇的街头音乐家们正是布拉格的致命吸引力之一
从旧城区行经查理大桥前往小区,在桥上就可以看到这个紧邻着河畔的康帕岛(Kampa)。这个小小的区域其实并不是一个真正的岛屿,只是因为它除了 紧临伏尔塔瓦河(Vltava)之外,另一侧还有条雀尔托夫卡河(Certovka),即使区域的南部和小区是相连的,大家还是把它视为一个小小的岛般看 待。
岛上的建筑物给人一种分外优雅轻松的感觉
若沿着河畔走向公园,还可以欣赏到颇为美丽的布拉格市容,而公园里那被阳光照得越发翠绿的草地,是个很适合写张明信片给自己或给朋友的地方。
骑士兵器博物馆
博物馆位置:巷子口的最前方
漫步大桥的石瓦上,微风轻拂脸庞;欣赏街头艺人的捷克风味乐曲与木偶剧,大概在这里才能有如此文艺的旅行经历。
从老城广场出发,穿过黄金巷卡夫卡的故居,沿着伏尔塔瓦河下行的第一座桥,就是游客们津津乐道的建于1357年的查理大石桥(Charles Bridge )。
查理大桥两旁站满了街头艺术家们
查理大桥附近的天鹅
查理大桥上的三个拍摄点
从桥上看风景,分别有四个地方较容易拍到好照片。在耶稣受难雕像处,我们可拍到较好的桥面环境图,推荐多尝试较低的角度,可拍摄出不同的画面感觉; 在圣母圣多米尼克和圣托马斯雕像这里则可以尝试拍摄远处的布拉格城镇,拍摄时可以让较多的城镇进入画面,减少河面所占的画面比例;最后在圣路加雕像这里则 最好选择天晴的时候,采用逆光的方式去拍摄雕像,可以拍出类似天堂感觉的气势恢弘画面。
游玩攻略
KamennyStul餐厅:在旧城广场逛累了,可来这里休息外加解决温饱问题,推荐285克朗布拉格风味鸡排餐和375克朗的传统捷克烤鸭餐;听着旋律吃着美食看着窗外的人潮,还真是别致的享受,人均花费约在450克朗。
U Flek啤酒屋:全布拉格最新鲜最有历史的啤酒就在这里!创立于1499年,是布拉格最老字号的酒馆及酿酒厂,来这里一定要尝试遵循自家祖传秘方酿造的UFlek啤酒;酒馆内部还有表演厅,深受游客欢迎的U Flek歌舞秀就是在这里演出,人均花费约在150克朗。
捷克啤酒口感独特值得一试
机场往来市中心的交通方式:
(1) 最经济快速:买一张26克朗的车票(平日60分钟有效/假日90分钟),搭119号巴士到A线(绿色)的Dejvicka地铁站,或搭100号巴士到B线(黄色)的Zlicin地铁站,接着再转乘地铁到目的地(不建议拉行李搭乘)。
(2) 较经济但是速度较慢:选择搭乘Student Agency巴士到市中心的Florenc巴士总站。
(3) 最快速:搭机场直达小巴士往返市区,直接向司机购票(有时下车才收费)。
购物
哈维尔市集:便宜,有想要的就下手吧!贩售内容大同小异,可多走几家再决定是否购买,买的数量多可以杀价。
哈维尔市集的入口,里面应有尽有
最便宜的城镇:Telc,有喜欢的纪念品可以就在这个小镇先买了,免得后悔。
最贵的城镇:当然非Praha莫属,CK仅次于Praha。本来打算要买啤酒+酒杯的礼盒当纪念品,由于Praha镇太贵而没有下手,打算到机场购买,没想到机场没有,所以有喜欢的要赶紧下手。
布拉格两大音乐厅周边景色示意图
The Charles Bridge
The stunning 15th century bridge, which connects the 'Lesser Town' and the old town, is adorned with 30 statues of saints and lined with old fashioned lanterns, making it the perfect spot for a romantic evening, or early morning stroll. However, it is best avoided during the middle of the day, as the crowds flock across the bridge in their masses taking in every photo opportunity, while entertainers and arts & crafts stalls set up business for the day.
The Astronomical Clock
Probably one of the most famous sites of Prague is the striking astronomical clock of the town hall, which also features a calendar painted by the famous Czech painter Josef Manes, and the charming procession of the 12 apostles who appear through the wooden doors that open at the top, drawing huge crowds of tourists on the hour every hour. The clock displays four times: central European time, old bohemian time, stellar time and the unique Babylonian time.
The John Lennon Wall
Possibly one of the most unusual and unexpected sights in Prague is the John Lennon wall in the Lesser town.This graffiti-covered wall features an image of John Lennon's face - who, despite having never visited Prague, became a hero to the young, particularly after his murder in the 1980s when western music was banned here. Anti-communists and peace activists daubed anti-government slogans on this wall and, since the collapse of communism, visitors from around the world have added words, poems and paintings of peace, creating a bright and colorful statement against the soft palette of the more traditional buildings of Prague.
Shopping!
If you can’t get by without a bit of retail therapy - and have money to spend - then head to Pariska, which is just off the Old Town Square and is the equivalent of London’s Bond Street, where Dior, Gucci, Hermes, Burberry and Louis Vuitton (to name just a few) adorn this pretty tree-lined street, sitting comfortably alongside many inviting restaurants and cafes.
Coffee at Kavarna café, Municipal house
Marvel at this stunning art nouveau building right in the heart of the city. The Municipal House building is the site of the former Royal Court Palace, and is now a multi-functional venue and hosts many events, from classical music concerts to conferences and fashion shows. It also houses two restaurants, a bar and art gallery. The Kaverna café is situated on the ground floor and is open early for breakfast and speciality coffee and tea, serves light Czech national cuisine dishes for lunch and is open until late for alcoholic drinks and bar snacks. In the summer - tables and chairs are set up outside - it's perfect for retail therapy refreshment as it is opposite one of Prague’s main shopping centres!
The Castle
Dominating the skyline of the city is the Prague Castle – the largest ancient castle in the world. Over the centuries the castle has survived many invasions, fires and wars, and has been rebuilt many times, which has resulted in a mixture of architectural styles. The castle is currently the seat of the president of the Czech Republic, and each hour, on the hour, the changing of the guard takes place. If you catch it at midday, you can see the military fanfare, too. You will need at least half a day to explore the castle, its courtyards, surrounding churches and beautiful gardens, whilst taking in all the history. Make sure you finish off your visit with lunch in one of the surrounding cafes or restaurants.
The Lesser Town (Mala Strana) and St Nicholas Church
The Lesser Town, on the left bank of the river, has remained practically unchanged since the end of the 18th century. Away from the bustling streets of the old town, with many bars and restaurants, you can sit and enjoy a drink and watch the world go by. The imposing baroque St Nicolas Cathedral is the prominent feature of this side of the river, boasting a large green dome and high bell tower. Once you step inside, magnificent frescos adorn the ceilings.
Chateau Mcely
If you fancy heading out of the city for some fresh country air, then look no further than the beautiful Chateau Mcely. An hour's drive from Prague in the heart of the St George forest, this is a real treasure (which I almost don’t want to tell anyone about - and keep it my secret!) You can go for lunch, dinner or traditional cream tea - even stay for a weekend as it is also a hotel with 24 beautifully appointed rooms and suites. Chateau Mcely also offers a range of their own spa treatments created on the basis of ancient alchemy and using herbs from the St George forest.
The Jewish Quarter
The harrowing history of the Jewish community of Prague can be traced back as far as the 13th Century, when the Jewish Quarter was created. The Jewish people were not allowed to live in any other area of the City and had heavy restrictions imposed on them. As more and more people were forced to live in this area it became known as The Prague Ghetto until 1781. Many significant historical buildings remain here including many synagogues, The Jewish Town Hall and the Jewish cemetery - which is the oldest burial ground in the world, and where some 12,000 graves are piled one on top of the other.
Kampa Island and Kampa Museum
Sitting proudly on Kampa Island - on the left bank of the Vltava River - is the Kampa Museum. Opened in 2002, it holds a large permanent collection of Central European art as well as visiting exhibitions throughout the year. Include a visit if you venture into the Lesser town for a relaxing and peaceful morning, and perhaps enjoy a coffee or lunch in the museum's gorgeous riverside café.
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