Beijing Hotel Guide: Aman at Summer Palace

Inhabiting a series of historic dwellings just steps from one of China’s most iconic sites is Aman at Summer Palace, a sanctuary of peace where a sense of balance and tranquility pervades throughout.

It’s not every day you get to stay somewhere with an imperial garden as your backyard. But Amanresorts, the ultra-luxe chain based in Singapore, has a knack for snagging extraordinary sites: a private island in the Philippines, the edge of a national park in Rajasthan. So when it opened its first resort in China in 2008, it aimed high: the Qing dynasty Summer Palace on the northwest outskirts of Beijing. (The company’s second Chinese property, called Amanfayun, recently opened in Hangzhou.) Arranged around elegant courtyards, ponds and arcades, the Aman at Summer Palace, as it’s called, is a sprawling compound of historic and historic-looking buildings, with 18 guestrooms, 33 suites and amenities fit for an emperor. Or, in the case of its original guesthouses, the empress dowager.

Kunming Lake _ The Summer Palace

LOCATION

Directly beside the Summer Palace — one of a handful of Unesco World Heritage Sites in Beijing. The 720-acre imperial garden has palaces, pavilions and ornate bridges scattered around Kunming Lake. Depending on traffic, it is about 30 to 40 minutes from central Beijing.

The lobby at Aman at Summer Palace

 Aman at summer palace courtyard 9 deluxe suite bedroom

THE ROOM

Not to gloat, but I was freely upgraded to a suite. Sure, it was the smallest category of suite, but No. 25 was still capacious, with a large foyer, living area and room to spare for a sedan chair or two. The décor was understated Chinese: white walls; scintillating golden-brown floor tiles; Ming- and Qing-dynasty-inspired armchairs, armoires, bed and daybed; rugs to sink your feet into. (By contrast, the regular guestroom I saw felt a bit cramped for two, compared with the standard rooms at other luxury hotels in town.) If I had to nitpick, I’d mention that a few areas could have used a paint touch-up, more power outlets would have been nice, and the TV should have faced the bed (it didn’t). But really, what’s to notice when you’re holding court?

 Aman at summer palace courtyard 2 deluxe suite bathroom

THE BATHROOM

The bathroom of my suite — did I mention I had a suite? — was so big that you practically needed smoke signals to communicate from one sink to the other. Amid the dark latticework and more scintillating golden-brown tiles, there was a freestanding tub, and a separate toilet and shower.

Aman at summer palace spa treatment room

Aman at Summer Palace The Swimming Pool

AMENITIES

Where to start? Beneath the reception pavilion is an expansive, subterranean pleasure dome where one could spend days luxuriating, what with a spa, whirlpool tubs, a spectacular 25-meter pool, juice bar, fitness and Pilates center, squash courts, beauty salon, endless lounge areas and a 37-seat cinema (just book a time and movie). Aboveground, you’ll find everything from good, if pricey, restaurants (Chinese, Japanese and Western) to a cigar bar, boutique and guest activities like traditional paper cutting and calligraphy demonstrations. Then there’s the Summer Palace itself; a staff member takes you through a secretive door directly into the garden, and greets you with steaming hand towels upon your return.

Aman at summer palace pavilion dining

 ROOM SERVICE

During my stay, the service was flawless, personal, prompt and thorough. A breakfast of breads, fruits, yogurt and two eggs with sausage (215 renminbi, or about $23 at 7 renminbi to $1) arrived in 10 minutes.

Aman at summer palace bar terrace

 THE BOTTOM LINE

For a getaway within Beijing, there’s no better place to claim your own mandate of heaven. The standard rooms are a bit small for the price, but with all the extras, you may be too pampered to notice. Standard rooms from $550; suites from $850.

Aman at Summer Palace, 1 Gongmenqian Street, Summer Palace, Beijing; (86-10) 5987-9999; amanresorts.com.