London is one of the culture capitals of the world and is brimming
with exciting things to see and do. With 82 days to go before the Summer
Games begin, the focus on the incredible Olympian spectacle we’re set
to witness is intensifying. But part of the reason London was chosen as
host city stems from the vast array of cultural pursuits and world-class
attractions that can be enjoyed here day-in, day-out. Take a
breathtaking trip on the London Eye, explore the amazing collections in
museums as diverse as the Tate Modern and Natural History Museum or
immerse yourself in the history of the city at Westminster Abbey or the
Tower of London.
Although England is notoriously expensive, London is filled with both historical and modern-day attractions that are sure to quench most every traveler’s thirst. As the Olympics countdown enters double digits, here’s our pick of ten best sights in London.
London Eye
Official Name: EDF Energy London Eye
Other Names: Millennium Wheel, British Airways London Eye
Address: Jubilee Gardens South Bank, S80 4PW
Transport: Metro at Waterloo
Website: www.londoneye.com
Phone: 0870 500 0600
Price: adult/4-15yr/senior £17/8.50/14
Hours: 10am-8pm Oct-Apr, to 9pm May, Jun & Sep, to 9.30pm Jul & Aug, closed 1 week in Jan
The House of Commons is where Members of Parliament (MPs) meet to propose and discuss new legislation, and to grill the prime minister and other ministers. The best time to watch a debate is during Prime Minister’s Question Time at noon on Wednesday, when the incumbent PM fields a barrage of hostile questions from the Opposition. Don’t forget, though, tickets must be arranged in advance through your MP or embassy.
The layout of the Commons Chamber is based on that of St Stephen’s Chapel in the original Palace of Westminster. The current chamber, designed by Giles Gilbert Scott, replaced the earlier one destroyed by a 1941 bomb. Although the Commons is a national assembly of 646 MPs, the chamber has seating for only 437. Government members sit to the right of the Speaker and Opposition members to the left. The Speaker presides over business from a chair given by Australia, while ministers speak from a despatch box donated by New Zealand.
When Parliament is in session, visitors are admitted to the House of Commons Visitors’ Gallery via St Stephen’s Entrance. Expect to queue for an hour or two if you haven’t already organised a ticket. Parliamentary recesses last for three months over the summer and a couple of weeks over Easter and Christmas, so it’s best to ring in advance. To find out what’s being debated on a particular day, check the notice board beside the entrance, or look in the Daily Telegraph or the freebie Metro newspaper under ‘Today in Parliament’, though it has to be said that the debates leave a lot to be desired both in terms of attendance and enthusiasm. Bags and cameras must be checked at a cloakroom before you enter the gallery and no large suitcases or backpacks are allowed through the airport-style security gate.
As you’re waiting for your bags to go through the X-ray machines, look left at the stunning roof of Westminster Hall, originally built in 1099 and today the oldest surviving part of the Palace of Westminster, the seat of the English monarchy from the 11th to the early 16th centuries. Added between 1394 and 1401, it is the earliest known example of a hammer-beam roof and has been described as ‘the greatest surviving achievement of medieval English carpentry’. Westminster Hall was used for coronation banquets in medieval times, and also served as a courthouse until the 19th century. The trials of William Wallace (1305), Thomas More (1535), Guy Fawkes (1606) and Charles I (1649) all took place here. In the 20th century, monarchs and Winston Churchill lay in state here.
The House of Lords Visitors’ Gallery is also open for visits. Against a backdrop of peers’ gentle snoring, you can view the intricate Gothic interior that led poor Pugin (1812–52) to an early death from overwork and nervous strain. When Parliament is in recess, there are 75-minute guided summer tours of both chambers and other historic buildings. Times change, so telephone or check www.parliament.uk for latest details.
Houses of Parliament
Other names: Palace of Westminster, or Westminster Palace
Address: St Margaret St SW1 St Stephen’s Entrance
Transport: Metro at Westminster
Website: www.parliament.uk
Phone: 7219 4272
Hours: during Parliamentary sessions 2.30-10.30pm Mon, 11.30am-7pm Tue & Wed, 11.30am-6.30pm Thu, 9.30am-3pm Fri
The tour starts in the Guard Room; allows a peek inside the State Dining Room (all red damask and Regency furnishings); then moves on to the Blue Drawing Room, with a gorgeous fluted ceiling by John Nash; to the White Drawing Room, where foreign ambassadors are received; and to the Ballroom, where official receptions and state banquets are held. The Throne Room is pretty hilarious with kitschy his-and-hers pink chairs initialled ‘ER’ and ‘P’, sitting smugly under what looks like a theatre arch. The most interesting part of the tour (for all but royal sycophants) is the 76.5m-long Picture Gallery, featuring splendid works by artists such as Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Canaletto, Poussin, Canova and Vermeer, although the likes of these and much more are yours for free at the National Gallery. Wandering the gardens is another highlight here – it’s bound to give you a real royal feeling. Book in advance for disabled access.
Buckingham Palace
Address: Buckingham Palace Rd SW1
Transport: Metro at St James’s Park, Victoria or Green Park
Website: www.royalcollection.org.uk
Email: buckinghampalace@royalcollection.org.uk
Phone: behindertengerechter Zugang : 7766 7324
7766 7300
Price: adult/child/concession/family £15.50/8.75/14/39.75
Hours: 9.30am-4.30pm 28 Jul-25 Sep, timed ticket with admission every 15min
One of the world’s oldest and finest museums, the British Museum started in 1749 in the form of royal physician Hans Sloane’s ‘cabinet of curiosities’ – which he later bequeathed to the country – and carried on expanding its collection (which now numbers some seven million items) through judicious acquisition and the controversial plundering of empire. It’s an exhaustive and exhilarating stampede through world cultures, with galleries devoted to Egypt, Western Asia, Greece, the Orient, Africa, Italy, the Etruscans, the Romans, prehistoric and Roman Britain and medieval antiquities. The museum is huge, so make a few focused visits if you have time, and consider the choice of tours. There are nine free 50-minute eyeOpener tours of individual galleries throughout the day, and 20-minute eyeOpener spotlight talks at 1.15pm focusing on different themes from the collection. Ninety-minute highlights tours leave at 10.30am, 1pm and 3pm. If you want to go it alone, audioguide tours are available at the information desk, including a family-oriented one narrated by comedian, writer and TV presenter Stephen Fry. One specific to the Parthenon Sculptures (aka the Parthenon Marbles or Elgin Marbles) is available in that gallery. You could also check out Compass, a multimedia public access system with 50 computer terminals that lets you take a virtual tour of the museum, plan your own circuit or get information on specific exhibits. The British Museum is planning to build a major new extension in its north-western corner, to be completed in 2012. The new building will have, among other things, a gallery dedicated to special exhibitions and a conservation and science centre.
British Museum
Address: Great Russell St WC1
Transport: Tube at Tottenham Court Rd or Russell Sq
Website: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk
Phone: Führungen: 7323 8181
7323 8000
Price: admission free, £3 donation suggested
Hours: galleries 10am-5.30pm Sat-Wed, to 8.30pm Thu & Fri, Great Court 9am-6pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat
Tower Bridge
Address: The Tower Bridge Southwark, SE1 2UP
Transport: Tube at Tower Hill
Website: www.towerbridge.org.uk
Phone: 7940 3985
Price: Tower Bridge Exhibition adult/under 5yr/5-15yr/senior & student/family £6/free/£3/£4.50/£14
Hours: Tower Bridge Exhibition 10:00-18:30 Apr-Oct, 09:30-18:00 Nov-Mar, last admission 1hr before closing
The remains of the poet John Donne, who was Dean of St. Paul’s for his final 10 years (he died in 1631), are in the south choir aisle. The vivacious choir-stall carvings nearby are the work of Grinling Gibbons, as are those on the great organ, which Wren designed. Behind the high altar is the American Memorial Chapel, dedicated to the 28,000 GIs stationed in the United Kingdom who lost their lives in World War II. Among the famous figures whose remains lie in the Crypt are the Duke of Wellington and Admiral Lord Nelson. The Crypt also has a gift shop and a café. Triforium Tour, a tour that also offers entry to the crypt and galleries. 020/7246-8357. £16. Mon. and Tues. at 11:30 and 2, Fri. at 2.
St Paul’s Cathedral
Address: St Paul’s Churchyard EC4
Transport: Tube at St Paul’s
Website: www.stpauls.co.uk
Price: adult/7-16yr/senior/student £11/3.50/10/8.50
Hours: 8.30am-4pm last entry Mon-Sat
Today’s Tower has seen everything, as a palace, barracks, a mint for producing coins, an archive, an armory, and the Royal Menagerie (which formed the basis of the London Zoo). The stunning opulence of the Crown Jewels, kept on-site in the heavily fortified Jewel House is a must-see. Most of all, though, the Tower is known for death: it’s been a place of imprisonment, torture, and execution for the realm’s most notorious traitors.
A person was mighty privileged to be beheaded in the peace and seclusion of Tower Green instead of before the mob at Tower Hill. In fact, only seven people were ever important enough—among them Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, wives two and five of Henry VIII’s six; Elizabeth I’s friend Robert Devereux, earl of Essex; and the nine-day queen, Lady Jane Grey, age 16.
Free tours depart every half hour or so from the Middle Tower. They are conducted by the Yeoman Warders, better known as Beefeaters, dressed in resplendent navy-and-red (scarlet-and-gold on special occasions) Tudor outfits. Beefeaters have been guarding the Tower since Henry VII appointed them in 1485. One of them, the Yeoman Warder Raven Master, is responsible for making life comfortable for the ravens (six birds plus reserves) that live in Lanthorn Tower. It’s an important duty, because if the ravens were to desert the Tower, goes the legend, the kingdom would fall. Today, the Tower takes no chances: The ravens’ wings are clipped.
In prime position stands the oldest part of the Tower and the most conspicuous of its buildings, the White Tower; the other towers were built in the next few centuries. This central keep was begun in 1078 by William the Conqueror; Henry III (1207-72) had it whitewashed, which is where the name comes from. The spiral staircase is the only way up, and here are the Armouries, with a collection of arms and armor. Across the moat, Traitors’ Gate lies to the right. Opposite Traitors’ Gate is the former Garden Tower, better known since about 1570 as the Bloody Tower. Its name comes from one of the most famous unsolved murders in history, the saga of the “little princes in the Tower.” In 1483 the uncrowned boy king, Edward V, and his brother Richard were left here by their uncle, Richard of Gloucester, after the death of their father, Edward IV. They were never seen again; Gloucester was crowned Richard III, and in 1674 two little skeletons were found under the stairs to the White Tower, which are thought to be theirs.
The most famous exhibits are the Crown Jewels, in the Jewel House, Waterloo Barracks. This is the Tower’s biggest draw, perfect for playing pick-your-favorite-crown from the wrong side of bulletproof glass. Not only are these crowns, staffs, and orbs encrusted with heavy-duty gems, they are invested with the authority of monarchical power in England, dating back to the 1300s. Included is the famous Koh-i-noor, or “Mountain of Light.” The legendary diamond, which was supposed to bring luck to women, came from India, and was given to Queen Elizabeth. You can see it, in cut-down shape, in the late Queen Mother’s Crown. The Crown Jewels used to be housed in Martin Tower, which now hosts an exhibit that explains the art of fashioning royal headwear and includes 12,314 cut and uncut diamonds.
The little Chapel Royal of St. Peter ad Vincula is the second church on the site, and it’s the final resting place of six beheaded Tudor bodies. Visitors are welcome for services and can also enter after 4:30 pm daily.
Evocative Beauchamp Tower served as a jail for upper-class miscreants. Latin graffiti about Lady Jane Grey, who was also a prisoner here, can be glimpsed on the walls.
For free tickets to the 700-year-old Ceremony of the Keys (locking of main gates, nightly between 9:30 and 10), write several months in advance; check the tower Web site for details.
Tower Tips — Tickets are cheaper if booked online: £16 for adults, £9 for children. If buying your ticket at the venue, pick them up at the kiosk at Tower Hill Tube station before emerging above ground — the lines should be shorter. Even so, choose a day other than Sunday — crowds are at their worst then — and arrive as early as you can in the morning, or late in the afternoon.
Tower of London
Address: Tower Hill EC3
Transport: Tube at Tower Hill
Website: www.hrp.org.uk
Phone: 0844-482 7777
Price: adult/5-15yr/senior & student/family £17/9.50/14.50/47
Hours: 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun & Mon Mar-Oct, closes 4.30pm daily Nov-Feb, last admission 30min before closing time
More or less at the center of the Abbey stands the shrine of Edward the Confessor, while scattered around are the tombs of various other royals, including Henry V, Elizabeth I, and Richard III. Splendid as they are, they are all rather overshadowed by the tomb of Henry VII. This elaborately carved, gilded structure, the work of the Italian artist Torrigiano (a contemporary and sometime rival of Michelangelo), introduced Renaissance lushness to the Abbey’s otherwise overwhelmingly austere, Gothic confines. Nearby is the surprisingly shabby Coronation Chair, on which almost every monarch since Edward II, including the current one, has sat during their coronation.
In Poet’s Corner you’ll find a great assortment of memorials to the country’s greatest men (and a few women) of letters, clustered around the grave of Geoffrey Chaucer, who was buried here in 1400. These include a statue of Shakespeare, his arm resting on a pile of books, Jacob Epstein’s bust of William Blake, as well as tributes to Jane Austen, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, John Milton, Dylan Thomas, and D. H. Lawrence.
Statesmen and men of science — Disraeli, Newton, Charles Darwin — are also interred in the Abbey or honored by monuments. If you walk towards the West Entrance, you’ll see a plaque to Franklin D. Roosevelt —one of the Abbey’s very few tributes to a foreigner. Near to the west door is the 1965 memorial to Sir Winston Churchill and the tomb of the Unknown Warrior, commemorating the British dead of World War I.
More royal relics are on display in the Abbey Museum, which is housed in the Abbey undercroft. Among its various oddities are the effigies of a number of past royals, including Edward II and Henry VII, which were used instead of the real corpses for lying-in-state ceremonies — they smelled better. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 10:30am to 4pm.
Arrive early if possible, but be prepared to wait in line to tour the abbey. Photography is not permitted. If visiting midweek, don’t forget to view the garden. First laid out some 900 years ago, it is one of the oldest cultivated gardens in the country, and offers a welcome breath of calming fresh air. It is open only from Tuesday to Thursday from April to September from 10am to 6pm, and from October to March from 10am to 4pm.
Westminster Abbey
Address: Dean’s Yard SW1
Transport: Tube at Westminster
Website: www.westminster-abbey.org
Email: info@westminster-abbey.org
Phone: 7222 5152
Price: adult/under 11yr/11-17yr/concession £15/free/6/12
Hours: 9.30am-3.45pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Wed, to 1.45pm Sat, last entry 1hr before closing
The pedestrianization has made it easier to appreciate not only the square but also the splendid buildings around it: the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery and the newly renovated church of St Martin-in-the-Fields. The ceremonial Pall Mall runs southwest from the top of the square. To the southwest stands Admiralty Arch, with The Mall leading to Buckingham Palace beyond it. To the west is Canada House (1827), designed by Robert Smirke. Standing in the centre of the square since 1843, the 52m-high Nelson’s Column (upon which the admiral surveys his fleet of ships to the southwest) commemorates Nelson’s victory over Napoleon off Cape Trafalgar in Spain in 1805.
Trafalgar Square
Location: Westminster and Royal London
Address: Trafalgar Sq., Westminster, London, WC2N 5DN
Tube: Charing Cross.
Location: Westminster and Royal London
website: www.london.gov.uk/trafalgarsquare
Its collection may not be of quite the same monumental scale as some of Europe’s other great galleries, such as the Louvre, the Prado, or the Uffizi, but for the sheer skill of its display and arrangement, the National surpasses its counterparts. And the gallery’s 2,300-plus paintings would still take some considerable time to view in their entirety — certainly a good deal longer than the gallery’s original collection, which consisted of just 38 works. It was founded in 1824 by the British Government, and gradually built up via a combination of private bequests and purchases. Today the collection provides a comprehensive overview of the development of Western art from the mid-1200s to 1900, with most major artists and movements of the period represented. The gallery’s collection cuts off at 1900; to see 20th-century art you need to head to Tate Modern and, for British art, Tate Britain.
Highlights
This brief selection is your jumping-off point, but there are hundreds more, enough to fill a full day. (1) Van Gogh (1853–1890), Sunflowers – one of four paintings of sunflowers dating from August and September 1888. one of the most popular paintings in the National Gallery. It is the painting that is most often reproduced on cards, posters, mugs, tea-towels and stationery. It was also the picture that Van Gogh was most proud of. (2) Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), The Virgin and Child—this exquisite black-chalk “Burlington Cartoon” has the master’s most haunting Mary. (3) Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), The Virgin of the Rocks (sometimes the Madonna of the Rocks) is the name used for both of two Late Renaissance paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, of the same subject, and of a composition which is identical except for two significant details. One painting usually hangs in the Louvre, Paris, and the other in the National Gallery, London. The significant compositional differences are in the gaze and right hand of the angel. (4) Van Eyck (circa 1395-1441), The Arnolfini Portrait—a solemn couple holds hands, the fish-eye mirror behind them mysteriously illuminating what can’t be seen from the front view. (5) Holbein (1497-1543), The Ambassadors—two wealthy visitors from France stand surrounded by what were considered luxury goods at the time. Note the elongated skull at the bottom of the painting, which takes shape when viewed from an angle. (6) Constable (1776-1837), The Hay Wain—rendered overfamiliar by too many greeting cards, this is the definitive image of golden-age rural England. (7) Turner (1775-1851), Rain, Steam and Speed: The Great Western Railway, an astonishing whirl of rain, mist, steam, and locomotion (spot the hare). (8) Caravaggio (1573-1610), The Supper at Emmaus —a cinematically lightened, freshly resurrected Christ blesses bread in an astonishingly domestic vision from the master of chiaroscuro. (9) Seurat (1859-91), Bathers at Asnières—this static summer day’s idyll is one of the pointillist extraordinaire’s best-known works. (10) Botticelli (1445-1510), Venus and Mars—Mars sleeps, exhausted by the love goddess, oblivous to the lance wielded by mischievous cherubs. (11) Claude-Oscar Monet (1840 – 1926), Water-Lilies — Almost abstract in effect, it shows a close-up of the surface of the pond with groups of lilies highlighted against the shadows of trees in a rich color harmony of green, blue and pink.
Insider’s tip: Color coding throughout the galleries helps you keep track of the period you’re immersed in. Begin at an “Art Start” terminal in the Sainsbury Wing or East Wing Espresso Bar. The interactive screens give you access to information on all of the museum’s holdings; you can choose your favorites, and print out a free personal tour map. Want some stimulation? Try a free weekday lunchtime lecture, or Ten Minute Talk, which illuminates the story behind a key work of art. One-hour free, guided tours start at the Sainsbury Wing daily at 11:30 and 2:30. If you are eager for even more insight into the art, pick up a themed audio guide, which takes in about 20 paintings. If you visit during school holidays, don’t miss special programs for children. There are also free Family Sundays with special talks for children and their parents.
National Gallery
Address: Trafalgar Sq., London, WC2N 5DN
Transport: Tube at Charing Cross
Website: www.nationalgallery.org.uk
Phone: 020/7747-2885
Cost: Free, charge for special exhibitions; audio guide £3
Hours:10am-6pm Thu-Tue, to 9pm Wed
Designed by John Nash in the 1820s, the hub was named after the street Piccadilly, which earned its name in the 17th century from the stiff collars (picadils) that were the sartorial staple of the time (and were the making of a nearby tailor’s fortune). At the centre of the circus is the famous lead statue, the Angel of Christian Charity, dedicated to the philanthropist and child-labour abolitionist Lord Shaftesbury, and derided when unveiled in 1893, sending the sculptor into early retirement. The sculpture was at first cast in gold, but it was later replaced by the present-day one. Down the years the angel has been mistaken for Eros, the God of Love, and the misnomer has stuck (you’ll even see signs for ‘Eros’ from the Underground). It’s a handy meeting place for tourists, though if you don’t like the crowds, meet at the charging Horses of Helios statue at the edge of Piccadilly and Haymarket – apparently a much cooler place to convene.
John Nash had originally designed Regent St and Piccadilly to be the two most elegant streets in town but, curbed by city planners, Nash couldn’t realise his dream to the full. In the many years since his noble plans, Piccadilly Circus has become swamped with tourists, with streets such as Coventry St flogging astronomically priced cheap tat to unsuspecting visitors. Coventry St leads to Leicester Sq, while Shaftesbury Ave takes you to the heart of the West End’s theatreland. Piccadilly itself leads to the sanctuary of Green Park. On Haymarket, check out New Zealand House (built in 1959 on the site of the Carlton Hotel, which was bombed during the war), where the Vietnamese revolutionary leader Ho Chi Minh (1890–1969) worked as a waiter in 1913. Have a look down Lower Regent St for a glimpse of glorious Westminster.
Just east of the circus is London Trocadero, a huge and soulless indoor amusement arcade that has six levels of hi-tech, high-cost fun for youngsters, along with cinemas, US-themed restaurants and bowling alleys.
Piccadilly Circus
Address: St. James’s, London, W1J ODA
Tube: Piccadilly Circus.
Phone: 7734 6126
This rather pricey pass is useful if you’re trying to cram 2 days’ worth of sightseeing into a single day. But if you’re a slow-moving visitor, who likes to stop and smell the roses, you may not get your money’s worth. Decide how much transportation and sightseeing you hope to get done, and, using this guide, calculate what the costs will be. It’s a bit of paperwork, but it will help you decide whether the London Pass is a good deal for you. The pass is valid for 12 months and so it is worth buying in advance or checking back on the website regularly for special-priced deals. You can also purchase the pass without the transportation package. Visit the website at www.londonpass.com.
There are four airports, London Heathrow (due west), London Gatwick (south east), London Stansted (north east) and London Luton (north).
Airport Links
Any airport train with the word “Express” in it will be fast but expensive (cheapest prices are online): Heathrow 15 minutes/£32 adult return (www.heathrowexpress.com); Gatwick 30 minutes/£27.40 adult return (www.gatwickexpress.com); Stansted 45 minutes/£27.30 adult return (www.stanstedexpress.com). If not in a hurry, take the bus – they will normally make several stops in central London, so check your hotel location – or take the local stopping train (Gatwick to Victoria takes around 50 minutes and costs as little as £17.50 for an anytime adult return. If doing this the other way, make sure the train stops at the airport) with Southern (www.southernrailway.com)
Cruises
Ships moor at Tilbury, 22 miles from central London in the Thames Estuary (www.londoncruiseterminal.com). Passengers are bussed in and out, but trains from nearby Tilbury Town take 35 minutes to Fenchurch Street.
Train
Eurostar (08432 186186, www.eurostar.com) runs out of Victorian Gothic St Pancras International (020 7843 7688, www.stpancras.com), now almost a destination in its own right: Paris 2hrs 15, Lille 1hr 20, Brussels 2hrs 58. For further afield in Europe contact RailEurope (0844 848 4070, www.raileurope.co.uk).
London traffic is unforgiving and most roads adhere to the mediaeval spaghetti system rather than a nice grid. Still want to drive? If you live in the UK, join ZipCar (0333 240 9000, www.zipcar.com) – one-off fee £59.50, and you can pick up a car for as little as £5 an hour. The Congestion Charge is paid automatically. EasyCar (www.easycar.com) does good deals on small cars – they are currently offering car hire from Heathrow from £15 per day. See Tfl website for congestion charge information: the zone shrank in January 2011.
Bike
The Barclaycard Cycle Hire scheme (UK 0845 026 3630, overseas +44 (0)20 8216 6666, www.tfl.gov.uk/barclayscyclehire) is now open to member and casual users with a credit card. Access to the “Boris Bikes” – as Londoners call them, after the cycling Mayor of London, Boris Johnson – costs £1 for 24 hours, £5 for seven days and £45 per year. Usage is free up to 30 minutes, but rises steeply after two hours. Download the map or phone app showing the latest docking stations: not all of them are shown on the maps on the information posts. For longer periods, the London Cycling Campaign (www.lcc.org.uk) has a list of hire shops: On Your Bike (www.onyourbike.com) on Tooley Street, SE1, for example, does day hire for £18 first day and £10 thereafter and a week for £45.
Taxis
The familiar Black Cabs are the only ones allowed to ply for hire and are only available if their orange lights are on (tricky to see on summer nights). They are expensive because they know where they’re going, thanks to long training: flag down is £2.20 and fares jump after 8pm and again after 10pm. Minicabs are less regulated but cheaper: ask a friend or venue for a reliable company, ask the fare in advance and check they know your name before you get in. For 35p Cabwise will text you the nearest cabs, using GPS: just text CAB to 60835. If you want to tip, aim for around 10% or round up the fare.
Public Transport
First step is to pay a refundable £5 deposit for an Oyster Card online (www.tfl.gov.uk/oyster) or at a station. Without the plastic card, a single Zone 1 & 2 tube journey costs £4. With it, £2.50 peak and £1.90 off-peak, and your travel costs are capped for the day. Buses without cost £2.20, with £1.30, capped at £4 per day. Use it to top up pay-as-you-go or load it with a Travelcard:
One-day off-peak Travelcard: £6.60 (Zone 1 & 2), peak £8 – these are also the daily capping rates for pay-as-you-go.
Seven-day Travelcard: £27.60 (Zone 1 & 2).
Visitor Oyster Card: An electronic smartcard ticket, can save up to 50 percent on London tube trains, buses, trams, and trains. If you live outside London £10 plus £3 deposit. www.visitbritainshop.com
The Tube, or Underground, is a fantastic network when it runs smoothly. Buses are cheaper, slower, have better views and mightily improved signage and maps. Many overland trains now take Oyster as well.
Beware “open” stations (for example, on the DLR); it’s easy to forget to swipe out and get clobbered for the maximum day charge. Infuriating.
Although England is notoriously expensive, London is filled with both historical and modern-day attractions that are sure to quench most every traveler’s thirst. As the Olympics countdown enters double digits, here’s our pick of ten best sights in London.
An Interactive Map of London Top Attractions
Go for a spin on the London Eye - The 443-foot ferris wheel on the bank of the River Thames
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London Eye
London Eye
Official Name: EDF Energy London Eye
Other Names: Millennium Wheel, British Airways London Eye
Address: Jubilee Gardens South Bank, S80 4PW
Transport: Metro at Waterloo
Website: www.londoneye.com
Phone: 0870 500 0600
Price: adult/4-15yr/senior £17/8.50/14
Hours: 10am-8pm Oct-Apr, to 9pm May, Jun & Sep, to 9.30pm Jul & Aug, closed 1 week in Jan
The Houses of Parliament and the clock tower, commonly called Big Ben, are among London's most iconic landmarks
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Big Ben and Houses of Parliament
The House of Commons is where Members of Parliament (MPs) meet to propose and discuss new legislation, and to grill the prime minister and other ministers. The best time to watch a debate is during Prime Minister’s Question Time at noon on Wednesday, when the incumbent PM fields a barrage of hostile questions from the Opposition. Don’t forget, though, tickets must be arranged in advance through your MP or embassy.
The layout of the Commons Chamber is based on that of St Stephen’s Chapel in the original Palace of Westminster. The current chamber, designed by Giles Gilbert Scott, replaced the earlier one destroyed by a 1941 bomb. Although the Commons is a national assembly of 646 MPs, the chamber has seating for only 437. Government members sit to the right of the Speaker and Opposition members to the left. The Speaker presides over business from a chair given by Australia, while ministers speak from a despatch box donated by New Zealand.
When Parliament is in session, visitors are admitted to the House of Commons Visitors’ Gallery via St Stephen’s Entrance. Expect to queue for an hour or two if you haven’t already organised a ticket. Parliamentary recesses last for three months over the summer and a couple of weeks over Easter and Christmas, so it’s best to ring in advance. To find out what’s being debated on a particular day, check the notice board beside the entrance, or look in the Daily Telegraph or the freebie Metro newspaper under ‘Today in Parliament’, though it has to be said that the debates leave a lot to be desired both in terms of attendance and enthusiasm. Bags and cameras must be checked at a cloakroom before you enter the gallery and no large suitcases or backpacks are allowed through the airport-style security gate.
As you’re waiting for your bags to go through the X-ray machines, look left at the stunning roof of Westminster Hall, originally built in 1099 and today the oldest surviving part of the Palace of Westminster, the seat of the English monarchy from the 11th to the early 16th centuries. Added between 1394 and 1401, it is the earliest known example of a hammer-beam roof and has been described as ‘the greatest surviving achievement of medieval English carpentry’. Westminster Hall was used for coronation banquets in medieval times, and also served as a courthouse until the 19th century. The trials of William Wallace (1305), Thomas More (1535), Guy Fawkes (1606) and Charles I (1649) all took place here. In the 20th century, monarchs and Winston Churchill lay in state here.
The House of Lords Visitors’ Gallery is also open for visits. Against a backdrop of peers’ gentle snoring, you can view the intricate Gothic interior that led poor Pugin (1812–52) to an early death from overwork and nervous strain. When Parliament is in recess, there are 75-minute guided summer tours of both chambers and other historic buildings. Times change, so telephone or check www.parliament.uk for latest details.
Houses of Parliament
Other names: Palace of Westminster, or Westminster Palace
Address: St Margaret St SW1 St Stephen’s Entrance
Transport: Metro at Westminster
Website: www.parliament.uk
Phone: 7219 4272
Hours: during Parliamentary sessions 2.30-10.30pm Mon, 11.30am-7pm Tue & Wed, 11.30am-6.30pm Thu, 9.30am-3pm Fri
Buckingham Palace has been the official London residence of the British monarch since 1837
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Buckingham Palace
The tour starts in the Guard Room; allows a peek inside the State Dining Room (all red damask and Regency furnishings); then moves on to the Blue Drawing Room, with a gorgeous fluted ceiling by John Nash; to the White Drawing Room, where foreign ambassadors are received; and to the Ballroom, where official receptions and state banquets are held. The Throne Room is pretty hilarious with kitschy his-and-hers pink chairs initialled ‘ER’ and ‘P’, sitting smugly under what looks like a theatre arch. The most interesting part of the tour (for all but royal sycophants) is the 76.5m-long Picture Gallery, featuring splendid works by artists such as Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Canaletto, Poussin, Canova and Vermeer, although the likes of these and much more are yours for free at the National Gallery. Wandering the gardens is another highlight here – it’s bound to give you a real royal feeling. Book in advance for disabled access.
Buckingham Palace
Address: Buckingham Palace Rd SW1
Transport: Metro at St James’s Park, Victoria or Green Park
Website: www.royalcollection.org.uk
Email: buckinghampalace@royalcollection.org.uk
Phone: behindertengerechter Zugang : 7766 7324
7766 7300
Price: adult/child/concession/family £15.50/8.75/14/39.75
Hours: 9.30am-4.30pm 28 Jul-25 Sep, timed ticket with admission every 15min
See artefacts like the Rosetta Stone, the Parthenon Elgin Marbles and the Lewis Chessmen at British Museum - For Free
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British Museum
One of the world’s oldest and finest museums, the British Museum started in 1749 in the form of royal physician Hans Sloane’s ‘cabinet of curiosities’ – which he later bequeathed to the country – and carried on expanding its collection (which now numbers some seven million items) through judicious acquisition and the controversial plundering of empire. It’s an exhaustive and exhilarating stampede through world cultures, with galleries devoted to Egypt, Western Asia, Greece, the Orient, Africa, Italy, the Etruscans, the Romans, prehistoric and Roman Britain and medieval antiquities. The museum is huge, so make a few focused visits if you have time, and consider the choice of tours. There are nine free 50-minute eyeOpener tours of individual galleries throughout the day, and 20-minute eyeOpener spotlight talks at 1.15pm focusing on different themes from the collection. Ninety-minute highlights tours leave at 10.30am, 1pm and 3pm. If you want to go it alone, audioguide tours are available at the information desk, including a family-oriented one narrated by comedian, writer and TV presenter Stephen Fry. One specific to the Parthenon Sculptures (aka the Parthenon Marbles or Elgin Marbles) is available in that gallery. You could also check out Compass, a multimedia public access system with 50 computer terminals that lets you take a virtual tour of the museum, plan your own circuit or get information on specific exhibits. The British Museum is planning to build a major new extension in its north-western corner, to be completed in 2012. The new building will have, among other things, a gallery dedicated to special exhibitions and a conservation and science centre.
British Museum
Address: Great Russell St WC1
Transport: Tube at Tottenham Court Rd or Russell Sq
Website: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk
Phone: Führungen: 7323 8181
7323 8000
Price: admission free, £3 donation suggested
Hours: galleries 10am-5.30pm Sat-Wed, to 8.30pm Thu & Fri, Great Court 9am-6pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat
Tower Bridge, one of London's most iconic landmarks, is a combined bascule and suspension bridge with two 213 foot towers
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Tower Bridge
Tower Bridge
Address: The Tower Bridge Southwark, SE1 2UP
Transport: Tube at Tower Hill
Website: www.towerbridge.org.uk
Phone: 7940 3985
Price: Tower Bridge Exhibition adult/under 5yr/5-15yr/senior & student/family £6/free/£3/£4.50/£14
Hours: Tower Bridge Exhibition 10:00-18:30 Apr-Oct, 09:30-18:00 Nov-Mar, last admission 1hr before closing
St.
Paul's Cathedral, where Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer were
married in 1981 in an iconic wedding watched across the world, is one of
London's top tourist attractions
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St Paul’s Cathedral
The remains of the poet John Donne, who was Dean of St. Paul’s for his final 10 years (he died in 1631), are in the south choir aisle. The vivacious choir-stall carvings nearby are the work of Grinling Gibbons, as are those on the great organ, which Wren designed. Behind the high altar is the American Memorial Chapel, dedicated to the 28,000 GIs stationed in the United Kingdom who lost their lives in World War II. Among the famous figures whose remains lie in the Crypt are the Duke of Wellington and Admiral Lord Nelson. The Crypt also has a gift shop and a café. Triforium Tour, a tour that also offers entry to the crypt and galleries. 020/7246-8357. £16. Mon. and Tues. at 11:30 and 2, Fri. at 2.
St Paul’s Cathedral
Address: St Paul’s Churchyard EC4
Transport: Tube at St Paul’s
Website: www.stpauls.co.uk
Price: adult/7-16yr/senior/student £11/3.50/10/8.50
Hours: 8.30am-4pm last entry Mon-Sat
Tower Bridge is annexed by the Tower of London which houses the British Crown Jewels
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Tower of London
Today’s Tower has seen everything, as a palace, barracks, a mint for producing coins, an archive, an armory, and the Royal Menagerie (which formed the basis of the London Zoo). The stunning opulence of the Crown Jewels, kept on-site in the heavily fortified Jewel House is a must-see. Most of all, though, the Tower is known for death: it’s been a place of imprisonment, torture, and execution for the realm’s most notorious traitors.
A person was mighty privileged to be beheaded in the peace and seclusion of Tower Green instead of before the mob at Tower Hill. In fact, only seven people were ever important enough—among them Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, wives two and five of Henry VIII’s six; Elizabeth I’s friend Robert Devereux, earl of Essex; and the nine-day queen, Lady Jane Grey, age 16.
Free tours depart every half hour or so from the Middle Tower. They are conducted by the Yeoman Warders, better known as Beefeaters, dressed in resplendent navy-and-red (scarlet-and-gold on special occasions) Tudor outfits. Beefeaters have been guarding the Tower since Henry VII appointed them in 1485. One of them, the Yeoman Warder Raven Master, is responsible for making life comfortable for the ravens (six birds plus reserves) that live in Lanthorn Tower. It’s an important duty, because if the ravens were to desert the Tower, goes the legend, the kingdom would fall. Today, the Tower takes no chances: The ravens’ wings are clipped.
In prime position stands the oldest part of the Tower and the most conspicuous of its buildings, the White Tower; the other towers were built in the next few centuries. This central keep was begun in 1078 by William the Conqueror; Henry III (1207-72) had it whitewashed, which is where the name comes from. The spiral staircase is the only way up, and here are the Armouries, with a collection of arms and armor. Across the moat, Traitors’ Gate lies to the right. Opposite Traitors’ Gate is the former Garden Tower, better known since about 1570 as the Bloody Tower. Its name comes from one of the most famous unsolved murders in history, the saga of the “little princes in the Tower.” In 1483 the uncrowned boy king, Edward V, and his brother Richard were left here by their uncle, Richard of Gloucester, after the death of their father, Edward IV. They were never seen again; Gloucester was crowned Richard III, and in 1674 two little skeletons were found under the stairs to the White Tower, which are thought to be theirs.
The most famous exhibits are the Crown Jewels, in the Jewel House, Waterloo Barracks. This is the Tower’s biggest draw, perfect for playing pick-your-favorite-crown from the wrong side of bulletproof glass. Not only are these crowns, staffs, and orbs encrusted with heavy-duty gems, they are invested with the authority of monarchical power in England, dating back to the 1300s. Included is the famous Koh-i-noor, or “Mountain of Light.” The legendary diamond, which was supposed to bring luck to women, came from India, and was given to Queen Elizabeth. You can see it, in cut-down shape, in the late Queen Mother’s Crown. The Crown Jewels used to be housed in Martin Tower, which now hosts an exhibit that explains the art of fashioning royal headwear and includes 12,314 cut and uncut diamonds.
The little Chapel Royal of St. Peter ad Vincula is the second church on the site, and it’s the final resting place of six beheaded Tudor bodies. Visitors are welcome for services and can also enter after 4:30 pm daily.
Evocative Beauchamp Tower served as a jail for upper-class miscreants. Latin graffiti about Lady Jane Grey, who was also a prisoner here, can be glimpsed on the walls.
For free tickets to the 700-year-old Ceremony of the Keys (locking of main gates, nightly between 9:30 and 10), write several months in advance; check the tower Web site for details.
Tower Tips — Tickets are cheaper if booked online: £16 for adults, £9 for children. If buying your ticket at the venue, pick them up at the kiosk at Tower Hill Tube station before emerging above ground — the lines should be shorter. Even so, choose a day other than Sunday — crowds are at their worst then — and arrive as early as you can in the morning, or late in the afternoon.
Tower of London
Address: Tower Hill EC3
Transport: Tube at Tower Hill
Website: www.hrp.org.uk
Phone: 0844-482 7777
Price: adult/5-15yr/senior & student/family £17/9.50/14.50/47
Hours: 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun & Mon Mar-Oct, closes 4.30pm daily Nov-Feb, last admission 30min before closing time
All eyes were on Westminster Abbey when Prince William and Catherine Middleton wed here on April 29, 2011
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Westminster Abbey
More or less at the center of the Abbey stands the shrine of Edward the Confessor, while scattered around are the tombs of various other royals, including Henry V, Elizabeth I, and Richard III. Splendid as they are, they are all rather overshadowed by the tomb of Henry VII. This elaborately carved, gilded structure, the work of the Italian artist Torrigiano (a contemporary and sometime rival of Michelangelo), introduced Renaissance lushness to the Abbey’s otherwise overwhelmingly austere, Gothic confines. Nearby is the surprisingly shabby Coronation Chair, on which almost every monarch since Edward II, including the current one, has sat during their coronation.
In Poet’s Corner you’ll find a great assortment of memorials to the country’s greatest men (and a few women) of letters, clustered around the grave of Geoffrey Chaucer, who was buried here in 1400. These include a statue of Shakespeare, his arm resting on a pile of books, Jacob Epstein’s bust of William Blake, as well as tributes to Jane Austen, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, John Milton, Dylan Thomas, and D. H. Lawrence.
Statesmen and men of science — Disraeli, Newton, Charles Darwin — are also interred in the Abbey or honored by monuments. If you walk towards the West Entrance, you’ll see a plaque to Franklin D. Roosevelt —one of the Abbey’s very few tributes to a foreigner. Near to the west door is the 1965 memorial to Sir Winston Churchill and the tomb of the Unknown Warrior, commemorating the British dead of World War I.
More royal relics are on display in the Abbey Museum, which is housed in the Abbey undercroft. Among its various oddities are the effigies of a number of past royals, including Edward II and Henry VII, which were used instead of the real corpses for lying-in-state ceremonies — they smelled better. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 10:30am to 4pm.
Arrive early if possible, but be prepared to wait in line to tour the abbey. Photography is not permitted. If visiting midweek, don’t forget to view the garden. First laid out some 900 years ago, it is one of the oldest cultivated gardens in the country, and offers a welcome breath of calming fresh air. It is open only from Tuesday to Thursday from April to September from 10am to 6pm, and from October to March from 10am to 4pm.
Westminster Abbey
Address: Dean’s Yard SW1
Transport: Tube at Westminster
Website: www.westminster-abbey.org
Email: info@westminster-abbey.org
Phone: 7222 5152
Price: adult/under 11yr/11-17yr/concession £15/free/6/12
Hours: 9.30am-3.45pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Wed, to 1.45pm Sat, last entry 1hr before closing
Surrounded by the impressive National Gallery, Trafalgar Square is the center of London, where rallies and marches take place
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Trafalgar Square
The pedestrianization has made it easier to appreciate not only the square but also the splendid buildings around it: the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery and the newly renovated church of St Martin-in-the-Fields. The ceremonial Pall Mall runs southwest from the top of the square. To the southwest stands Admiralty Arch, with The Mall leading to Buckingham Palace beyond it. To the west is Canada House (1827), designed by Robert Smirke. Standing in the centre of the square since 1843, the 52m-high Nelson’s Column (upon which the admiral surveys his fleet of ships to the southwest) commemorates Nelson’s victory over Napoleon off Cape Trafalgar in Spain in 1805.
Trafalgar Square
Location: Westminster and Royal London
Address: Trafalgar Sq., Westminster, London, WC2N 5DN
Tube: Charing Cross.
Location: Westminster and Royal London
website: www.london.gov.uk/trafalgarsquare
Two
Versions Of Leonardo Da Vinci's 'Virgin Of The Rocks', the Louvre's
(left) in Paris and National Gallery's (right) in London. They differ in
several details. The angel Gabriel, seated at right, is shown to be
pointing at John the Baptist in the Louvre version of the painting. In
the National Gallery version, Leonardo removes that detail, but adds
haloes and a cruciform staff for the young Saint John.
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National Gallery
Its collection may not be of quite the same monumental scale as some of Europe’s other great galleries, such as the Louvre, the Prado, or the Uffizi, but for the sheer skill of its display and arrangement, the National surpasses its counterparts. And the gallery’s 2,300-plus paintings would still take some considerable time to view in their entirety — certainly a good deal longer than the gallery’s original collection, which consisted of just 38 works. It was founded in 1824 by the British Government, and gradually built up via a combination of private bequests and purchases. Today the collection provides a comprehensive overview of the development of Western art from the mid-1200s to 1900, with most major artists and movements of the period represented. The gallery’s collection cuts off at 1900; to see 20th-century art you need to head to Tate Modern and, for British art, Tate Britain.
The Arnolfini portrait by the Dutch painter Jan van Eyck is one of the most popular masterpieces in London’s National Gallery
This brief selection is your jumping-off point, but there are hundreds more, enough to fill a full day. (1) Van Gogh (1853–1890), Sunflowers – one of four paintings of sunflowers dating from August and September 1888. one of the most popular paintings in the National Gallery. It is the painting that is most often reproduced on cards, posters, mugs, tea-towels and stationery. It was also the picture that Van Gogh was most proud of. (2) Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), The Virgin and Child—this exquisite black-chalk “Burlington Cartoon” has the master’s most haunting Mary. (3) Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), The Virgin of the Rocks (sometimes the Madonna of the Rocks) is the name used for both of two Late Renaissance paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, of the same subject, and of a composition which is identical except for two significant details. One painting usually hangs in the Louvre, Paris, and the other in the National Gallery, London. The significant compositional differences are in the gaze and right hand of the angel. (4) Van Eyck (circa 1395-1441), The Arnolfini Portrait—a solemn couple holds hands, the fish-eye mirror behind them mysteriously illuminating what can’t be seen from the front view. (5) Holbein (1497-1543), The Ambassadors—two wealthy visitors from France stand surrounded by what were considered luxury goods at the time. Note the elongated skull at the bottom of the painting, which takes shape when viewed from an angle. (6) Constable (1776-1837), The Hay Wain—rendered overfamiliar by too many greeting cards, this is the definitive image of golden-age rural England. (7) Turner (1775-1851), Rain, Steam and Speed: The Great Western Railway, an astonishing whirl of rain, mist, steam, and locomotion (spot the hare). (8) Caravaggio (1573-1610), The Supper at Emmaus —a cinematically lightened, freshly resurrected Christ blesses bread in an astonishingly domestic vision from the master of chiaroscuro. (9) Seurat (1859-91), Bathers at Asnières—this static summer day’s idyll is one of the pointillist extraordinaire’s best-known works. (10) Botticelli (1445-1510), Venus and Mars—Mars sleeps, exhausted by the love goddess, oblivous to the lance wielded by mischievous cherubs. (11) Claude-Oscar Monet (1840 – 1926), Water-Lilies — Almost abstract in effect, it shows a close-up of the surface of the pond with groups of lilies highlighted against the shadows of trees in a rich color harmony of green, blue and pink.
Insider’s tip: Color coding throughout the galleries helps you keep track of the period you’re immersed in. Begin at an “Art Start” terminal in the Sainsbury Wing or East Wing Espresso Bar. The interactive screens give you access to information on all of the museum’s holdings; you can choose your favorites, and print out a free personal tour map. Want some stimulation? Try a free weekday lunchtime lecture, or Ten Minute Talk, which illuminates the story behind a key work of art. One-hour free, guided tours start at the Sainsbury Wing daily at 11:30 and 2:30. If you are eager for even more insight into the art, pick up a themed audio guide, which takes in about 20 paintings. If you visit during school holidays, don’t miss special programs for children. There are also free Family Sundays with special talks for children and their parents.
National Gallery
Address: Trafalgar Sq., London, WC2N 5DN
Transport: Tube at Charing Cross
Website: www.nationalgallery.org.uk
Phone: 020/7747-2885
Cost: Free, charge for special exhibitions; audio guide £3
Hours:10am-6pm Thu-Tue, to 9pm Wed
Piccadilly
Circus, London's Times Square, is a road junction connecting some of
London's famous shopping streets with the West End entertainment
district
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Piccadilly Circus
Designed by John Nash in the 1820s, the hub was named after the street Piccadilly, which earned its name in the 17th century from the stiff collars (picadils) that were the sartorial staple of the time (and were the making of a nearby tailor’s fortune). At the centre of the circus is the famous lead statue, the Angel of Christian Charity, dedicated to the philanthropist and child-labour abolitionist Lord Shaftesbury, and derided when unveiled in 1893, sending the sculptor into early retirement. The sculpture was at first cast in gold, but it was later replaced by the present-day one. Down the years the angel has been mistaken for Eros, the God of Love, and the misnomer has stuck (you’ll even see signs for ‘Eros’ from the Underground). It’s a handy meeting place for tourists, though if you don’t like the crowds, meet at the charging Horses of Helios statue at the edge of Piccadilly and Haymarket – apparently a much cooler place to convene.
John Nash had originally designed Regent St and Piccadilly to be the two most elegant streets in town but, curbed by city planners, Nash couldn’t realise his dream to the full. In the many years since his noble plans, Piccadilly Circus has become swamped with tourists, with streets such as Coventry St flogging astronomically priced cheap tat to unsuspecting visitors. Coventry St leads to Leicester Sq, while Shaftesbury Ave takes you to the heart of the West End’s theatreland. Piccadilly itself leads to the sanctuary of Green Park. On Haymarket, check out New Zealand House (built in 1959 on the site of the Carlton Hotel, which was bombed during the war), where the Vietnamese revolutionary leader Ho Chi Minh (1890–1969) worked as a waiter in 1913. Have a look down Lower Regent St for a glimpse of glorious Westminster.
Just east of the circus is London Trocadero, a huge and soulless indoor amusement arcade that has six levels of hi-tech, high-cost fun for youngsters, along with cinemas, US-themed restaurants and bowling alleys.
Piccadilly Circus
Address: St. James’s, London, W1J ODA
Tube: Piccadilly Circus.
Phone: 7734 6126
London Travel Tips
A Money-Saving Pass — The London Pass provides admission to more than 55 attractions in and around London, “timed” admission at some attractions (bypassing the line ups), plus free travel on public transport (buses, Tubes, and trains) and a pocket guidebook. It costs £40 for 1 day, £55 for 2 days, £68 for 3 days, and £90 for 6 days (children aged 5 to 15 pay £27, £41, £46, or £64, respectively), and includes admission to St. Paul’s Cathedral, HMS Belfast, the Jewish Museum, and the Thames Barrier Visitor Centre — and many other attractions.This rather pricey pass is useful if you’re trying to cram 2 days’ worth of sightseeing into a single day. But if you’re a slow-moving visitor, who likes to stop and smell the roses, you may not get your money’s worth. Decide how much transportation and sightseeing you hope to get done, and, using this guide, calculate what the costs will be. It’s a bit of paperwork, but it will help you decide whether the London Pass is a good deal for you. The pass is valid for 12 months and so it is worth buying in advance or checking back on the website regularly for special-priced deals. You can also purchase the pass without the transportation package. Visit the website at www.londonpass.com.
Getting there
FlightsThere are four airports, London Heathrow (due west), London Gatwick (south east), London Stansted (north east) and London Luton (north).
Airport Links
Any airport train with the word “Express” in it will be fast but expensive (cheapest prices are online): Heathrow 15 minutes/£32 adult return (www.heathrowexpress.com); Gatwick 30 minutes/£27.40 adult return (www.gatwickexpress.com); Stansted 45 minutes/£27.30 adult return (www.stanstedexpress.com). If not in a hurry, take the bus – they will normally make several stops in central London, so check your hotel location – or take the local stopping train (Gatwick to Victoria takes around 50 minutes and costs as little as £17.50 for an anytime adult return. If doing this the other way, make sure the train stops at the airport) with Southern (www.southernrailway.com)
Cruises
Ships moor at Tilbury, 22 miles from central London in the Thames Estuary (www.londoncruiseterminal.com). Passengers are bussed in and out, but trains from nearby Tilbury Town take 35 minutes to Fenchurch Street.
Train
Eurostar (08432 186186, www.eurostar.com) runs out of Victorian Gothic St Pancras International (020 7843 7688, www.stpancras.com), now almost a destination in its own right: Paris 2hrs 15, Lille 1hr 20, Brussels 2hrs 58. For further afield in Europe contact RailEurope (0844 848 4070, www.raileurope.co.uk).
Getting around
CarLondon traffic is unforgiving and most roads adhere to the mediaeval spaghetti system rather than a nice grid. Still want to drive? If you live in the UK, join ZipCar (0333 240 9000, www.zipcar.com) – one-off fee £59.50, and you can pick up a car for as little as £5 an hour. The Congestion Charge is paid automatically. EasyCar (www.easycar.com) does good deals on small cars – they are currently offering car hire from Heathrow from £15 per day. See Tfl website for congestion charge information: the zone shrank in January 2011.
Bike
The Barclaycard Cycle Hire scheme (UK 0845 026 3630, overseas +44 (0)20 8216 6666, www.tfl.gov.uk/barclayscyclehire) is now open to member and casual users with a credit card. Access to the “Boris Bikes” – as Londoners call them, after the cycling Mayor of London, Boris Johnson – costs £1 for 24 hours, £5 for seven days and £45 per year. Usage is free up to 30 minutes, but rises steeply after two hours. Download the map or phone app showing the latest docking stations: not all of them are shown on the maps on the information posts. For longer periods, the London Cycling Campaign (www.lcc.org.uk) has a list of hire shops: On Your Bike (www.onyourbike.com) on Tooley Street, SE1, for example, does day hire for £18 first day and £10 thereafter and a week for £45.
Taxis
The familiar Black Cabs are the only ones allowed to ply for hire and are only available if their orange lights are on (tricky to see on summer nights). They are expensive because they know where they’re going, thanks to long training: flag down is £2.20 and fares jump after 8pm and again after 10pm. Minicabs are less regulated but cheaper: ask a friend or venue for a reliable company, ask the fare in advance and check they know your name before you get in. For 35p Cabwise will text you the nearest cabs, using GPS: just text CAB to 60835. If you want to tip, aim for around 10% or round up the fare.
Public Transport
First step is to pay a refundable £5 deposit for an Oyster Card online (www.tfl.gov.uk/oyster) or at a station. Without the plastic card, a single Zone 1 & 2 tube journey costs £4. With it, £2.50 peak and £1.90 off-peak, and your travel costs are capped for the day. Buses without cost £2.20, with £1.30, capped at £4 per day. Use it to top up pay-as-you-go or load it with a Travelcard:
One-day off-peak Travelcard: £6.60 (Zone 1 & 2), peak £8 – these are also the daily capping rates for pay-as-you-go.
Seven-day Travelcard: £27.60 (Zone 1 & 2).
Visitor Oyster Card: An electronic smartcard ticket, can save up to 50 percent on London tube trains, buses, trams, and trains. If you live outside London £10 plus £3 deposit. www.visitbritainshop.com
The Tube, or Underground, is a fantastic network when it runs smoothly. Buses are cheaper, slower, have better views and mightily improved signage and maps. Many overland trains now take Oyster as well.
Beware “open” stations (for example, on the DLR); it’s easy to forget to swipe out and get clobbered for the maximum day charge. Infuriating.
